Christmas time in Madrid


Puerta del Sol

December is here, Mariah’s on the radio and I’m watching the Grinch on repeat. The Christmas countdown has officially begun. Although this year the height of festive fun is a socially distanced mug of mulled wine on a freezing terrace, we can hopefully look forward to cosy Christmas markets and spending time with more than six people next winter. Maybe we can even dare to dream about hopping on a plane or train for next year’s festive getaways. 

When you picture spending a long Christmassy weekend exploring another city, I’m willing to bet Madrid doesn’t immediately spring to mind. But having visited Spain’s capital during the festive season for the last three years, Madrid at Christmas holds a special place in my heart. If you’re in need of some festive daydreaming or if you’ve gorged on enough German gingerbread to last a lifetime, here are four ways to get your Christmas cheer on in Madrid. 

1. Get your churros fix at San Ginés

There’s something about the combination of freshly fried pastry and a hand warming mug of hot chocolate that makes churros the best Christmas treat ever (sorry mince pies). It’s the perfect way to refuel in the middle of a day of sightseeing, and when the churros cravings strike you’ll be spoilt for choice since they’re sold all over the city. The best place to get them though is the Chocolatería San Ginés, Madrid’s most famous chocolate shop. They’ve been making churros since 1894, and it’s fair to say they’ve perfected the craft. During the festive season, their churros are in such high demand that they transform the next door nightclub into an extension of their shop, the dance floor crammed with tables of hungry customers waiting for their Christmas churros fix. It’s amazing and has fast become one of my favourite festive traditions. 

The churros disco

2. Visit the Plaza Mayor Christmas market

Each December the city’s main square is transformed into a Christmas market extravaganza with 104 stalls selling an array of festive fare. Bombetas - little packets of gunpowder that crack when thrown on the floor - seem to be a favourite amongst the market’s younger visitors, and the frequent sound of these mini explosions adds to the party atmosphere. The stalls sell a variety of figurines in all shapes and sizes for the nativity scenes that feature in many Spanish households during Christmas, as well as toys and games to keep the whole family entertained. You might not be able to warm up with a mulled wine but the festive spirit will keep you feeling toasty inside. 

3. Experience a giant nativity scene 

Perhaps visiting a giant nativity scene isn’t on the top of your Christmas bucket list, but that’s only because you’ve never visited the town of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. Every Christmas the locals work their magic to turn the town into a frozen snapshot of a bustling biblical village complete with flocks of sheep, herds of goats and the three wise men sat majestically on their camels. At every twist and turn of the town you can feast your eyes on an assortment of weird and wonderful characters. You might encounter giraffes in front of the bakery, or cross paths with an imposing elephant striding down the street. One corner of the town is even transformed into a replica river with fishing boats and swans.  

It’s a one hour bus ride or drive from the city centre and it’s well worth the journey to experience this unique (and wacky) Christmas tradition. 



Needless to say, my photos don't do this spectacle justice.

4. Celebrate the most magical night of Christmas

I’m not talking about Santa shimmying down the chimney on Christmas Eve. The most magical night of Christmas in Spain is dedicated to Los Reyes Magos - or the Three Wise Men - on the 5th of January. It’s even the main gift-giving event, with children leaving their shoes out before bed for the generous kings to fill and surround them with presents. 

If you want to get a taste of this Spanish tradition, watch Melchior, Gaspar and Balthazar promenade through the city in all their glory in the annual Three Kings Parade. There are also local parades in each neighbourhood across Madrid, where the three kings throw sweets out into the eager hands of parade-goers. 

But my favourite part of Los Reyes Magos is the food, specifically the cake. Roscón de reyes is not just any old festive dessert. It’s a sugarcoated, crown-shaped, brioche-like creation bedecked with jewel-coloured fruit and filled with cream. Need I say more? It’s typically eaten for breakfast on the morning of Los Reyes and is a particularly superior way to start the day when dipped into hot chocolate. 

The inimitable Roscón de reyes

While travelling might be off the cards this Christmas, hopefully I’ve convinced you that Madrid makes for a surprisingly festive winter break. What it lacks in mulled wine and gingerbread, it makes up for with churros, hot chocolate and a crown-shaped breakfast cake of champions. And I’ve yet to see another town dedicate their December to creating a life-sized nativity scene. The Christmas spirit is alive and well in Madrid, and I hope you get to experience it one day. In the meantime, Feliz Navidad! 






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