Vienna: The city of music, the city of dreams

Photo by Jacek Dylag on Unsplash

Heading to Vienna? Lucky you! The city of music, the city of dreams, whatever moniker you give it, Vienna is one incredible city. Here are my must-see museums, essential eateries and sights you should soak up when in Austria’s beautiful capital. 

Surprise!

As we bundled onto the coach in the wee hours of the morning, my boyfriend Jorge pressed an envelope into my hand. In it contained three green cards with clues hidden within the folds. The clues read, “The city of music”; “The city of Klimt”; and “The city of Freud”.

The destination of my mystery 30th birthday weekend was, of course, Vienna. 

One coach journey, Leon porridge and a two-hour flight later, we were there – feet firmly set in the city of music itself and greedy for everything Vienna had to offer.  

Where to stay

We stayed in a beautiful Airbnb near the Prater, a famous amusement park in Vienna’s second district, Leopoldstadt.

Leopoldstadt is having a bit of a moment, according to Culture Trip. With its cool cafes, green spaces and proximity to the city centre, I can see the appeal. 

It’s also a short train ride away from the airport. Bonus. 

Where to eat and drink

Before we’d even set foot in our apartment, we got our caffeine fix at Supersense, an eccentric old shop and café in Leopoldstadt which claims to hold ‘the world’s most analog products’. I don’t know much about the world of analog, but I can tell you that ‘the world’s oddest products’ might be a more accurate title. Either way, this place is worth a visit to simply enjoy the beauty of Viennese architecture and drink a lovely cup of tea (or in Jorge’s case a melange – Vienna’s answer to a cappuccino). 

While we’re on the subject of tea and coffee, Café Central is an absolute must-visit. (Don’t let the queue put you off – it moves quickly and it’s worth the wait). Café Central epitomises Vienna’s café culture and has played host to an impressive array of regulars including Sigmund Freud and Leon Trotsky. You can’t help but be inspired by the thought that some of the world’s greatest thinkers might have sat in the very seat you’re sipping tea and eating apple strudel in. The experience is greatly enhanced by the grand setting and resident pianist. It was here that we also sampled Vienna’s famous Sachertorte, a rich chocolate cake with even richer chocolate icing accompanied by a healthy dollop of whipped cream. What’s not to love?

For brunch, check out another Leopoldstadt gem, The Cake Tree. A cute local café with friendly service and eggs that hit the spot, this is a pleasant place to spend those lazy late morning hours. We had the eggs Florentine and scrambled eggs, washed down with green tea. Unsurprisingly, the cakes also looked amazing.

If you’re after a truly Viennese experience, visit Gasthaus Pöschl. A gasthaus is a German style tavern or pub and it’s worth visiting at least one during your stay in Vienna. This particular gasthaus felt local and authentic and the food was everything we’d hoped for. I took a punt on the only item on the menu that included the word ‘vegetarische’ and luckily it turned out to be a hearty lentil stew with a dumpling on top. Jorge had a Wiener Schnitzel. When in Vienna…

When (or if) you reach your schnitzel capacity and you fancy something different, I recommend San Carlo, a little Italian restaurant in the city centre. We had a wonderful post-opera dinner there on the night of the big 3-0 where we feasted on melt in the mouth bread and creamy, mushroom laden risotto (with a carafe of wine of course). 

The museums 

When you visit Vienna, be prepared. There’s a fine chance you’ll be so overcome with inspiration that you’ll consider quitting your day job on the spot to dedicate yourself to a life of artistic endeavours. At least that’s how I felt. 

The first stop on our cultural tour was the Albertina. A former residence of the Habsburgs, this gorgeous museum is bursting at the seams with art’s pioneers. We opted for the permanent exhibit, The Batliner Collection, a beautifully curated tour through impressionism and post-impressionism, German Expressionism and New Objectivity. The in-depth focus on Austrian art with works by Kokoschka and paintings by Egger-Lienz was a highlight.

The next day we walked to the Belvedere, home of Klimt’s beloved masterpiece, ‘The Kiss’. The Belvedere is comprised of two Baroque palaces and a park and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Go for the architecture, go for the art, whatever you do just go. ‘The Kiss’ itself did not disappoint. Whilst it was predictably crowded with selfie-seekers and art lovers alike, it was still possible to get within a decent proximity and enjoy the painting’s full effect. And with a whole host of other masterpieces from the likes of Schiele, Funke and Kokoschka, it’s well worth the ticket. 

On our final day, we visited the Leopold Museum and it was a fantastic note to leave Vienna on. The Leopold houses one of the world’s most important collections of Austrian art from the second half of the nineteenth century and Modernism. Schiele and Klimt being two of my favourite artists, I was particularly moved by the museum’s collection of their works. The collection tells their stories beautifully and confirms Vienna’s status as a city of true beauty.